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Batteries : 2x AA (Not Included)

LED : XP-G2 S2

Tint : Cool White

Max Output
 FL-1 Lumens : 265
 Run Time : 90 minutes

Min Output
 FL-1 Lumens : 50
 Run Time : 8 hours

 On/Off : Tail Cap Button
 Output Selection : Twist Head

Tighten head for max output, loosen slightly for min output.
* Test the selection with the flashlight on, as it does not require extreme tightening or loosening.


This is a great option for someone that wants the durability of a fancy flashlight, yet keep the price down compared to other models I carry.
It is a simple flashlight, with only 2 outputs.
No accidentally wandering into the strobe outputs or needing to cycle through a bunch of outputs to get back to the one you want.

It runs on a pair of regular Alkaline (primary) AA batteries. It can also run on a pair of Ni-MH (rechargeable) AA batteries, or a pair of 1.5V Liion (rechargeable) batteries (See Battery Advice below).

----- Warranty -----

This is a discontinued flashlight.

I offer three levels of action for warranty on the P100A2.

1) I will provide information to help you do basic testing to isolate the issue, in the hopes of a simple fix.
2) The flashlight can be returned to me for me to perform testing and maintenance on it, in the hopes of solving the issue.
3) If I still have P100A2 in stock, I will replace parts or the entirety of the flashlight if I am unable to get the flashlight functioning again.

I will note be contacting Eagtac about warranty for the P100A2, as the shipping cost is as much or more than the price on this listing.

----- Battery Advice -----

Do not mix brands of batteries. Both batteries that are in the flashlight should be of the same brand, chemistry and capacity.

~ Akaline (primary) (1.5V)
These are the traditional single use batteries that everyone is accustom to.
This is one of the two types intended to be used in this flashlight.
Due to the way Alkaline depletes, the flashlight may eventually not be able to switch into max output but still be able to run on min output for some time.
If this occurs, and you don't want to run on the reduced output to finish the batteries, then replace the batteries with a fresh set.

Leaks : All alkaline batteries will eventually leak.
If the flashlight is not being used regularly (such as kept in a vehicle for emergencies, or kept with camping gear, etc), then remove the batteries.

Cons : Depending on usage rate there could be a lot of buying batteries.
Prod : Easy to get more batteries.

~ Ni-MH (rechargeable) (1.2V)
These are the traditional rechargeable battery that everyone is accustom to.
This is the second type of battery intended to be used in this flashlight.
Ni-MH has a shorter depletion curve, so if max output becomes unavailable then remove the batteries and recharge them.
However, these batteries are lower voltage (1.2V), so the output might be slightly lower or the run time slightly reduced.

If the flashlight is not being used regularly (around for emergencies, kept with camping gear, etc) then these batteries can be left in the flashlight, but should be checked at least every six months, more often as the batteries age.

Why pick Ni-Mh over Alkaline?
Cons : Need a charger, need to recharge the batteries.
Pros : One pair replaces 500 pairs of Alkaline, not going to leak and destroy the flashlight, about as easy to find as Alkaline.
(Feb 2021, I found a listing for 144 pack of AA Alkaline for $115, so 3 packs (432 AA Alkaline) for $345... or get a 4 pack of Ni-MH for $25 from the store and a UNI C2 charger from me for $20.)

~ Lithium (primary) (1.5V)
These have grown in some popularity.
Should work perfectly fine, as I have not encountered any issues in their usage.
I do note that in flashlights, the performance does not increase enough over Alkaline to justify the cost. The power demand of the flashlights is higher than the devices that Lithium primary AA work best in.

If the flashlight will not be used for long periods, these batteries can be left in it without issue.
I would still suggest not leaving batteries in the flashlight, and instead pulling them out to finish in another device so a fresh set can be used when the flashlight is needed.

Why pick Lithium primary over alkaline and Ni-MH?
Because recycling companies will recycle these for sure, while alkaline are worth it for the recycling company to actually recycle them.
Ni-MH are still more cost effective, and are likely to be recycled if sent in.

~ Li-Ion AA (rechargeable) (1.5V)
These are a special battery. They have a built in charger, because they would be destroyed if placed in a regular charger.
I carry the Fenix Li-Ion AA 1.5V .
The P100A2 is from before these were available, so haven't been tested on them... but it should work fine. (See below.)

Cons : Need a charging cable (micro USB)... or multiple if want to charge more than one at a time
Pros : The good parts of Li-ion and Ni-MH

Why choose Li-Ion AA?
The perform better than Lithium primary and Ni-Mh. In theory they are lower capacity than Alkaline, but in practice they will keep the flashlight on max output for about as long as Alkaline.
Note : I've been using a pair of the Fenix batteries in a wireless mouse for years now... and I think I may have recharged them almost 10 times (as for Feb 2021).

~ Li-Ion 14500 (rechargeable) (3.6V)
Do not use these in this flashlight, it will kill the flashlight.

Cons : It will kill the P100A2.

Why choose 14500?
No. Seriously, do not.